Fabric Choice 101: Woven Cotton Types & Weights

Hi Pals! As we get ready for a new season, I wanted to chat a bit about something simple yet complex: cotton.

Woven cotton is everywhere—from your softest bed sheets to your favourite Thomas or (coming soon!) Heather Shirt. But despite its everyday presence, we don't always talk about just how diverse this textile can be. From sheer voiles to sturdy canvases, woven cottons come in a wide range of weights, textures, and finishes, each suited to specific purposes.

If you're buying fabric or clothing online, it helps to have a lexicon of the different types of woven cotton fabrics so that you can make the most informed choices for your wardrobe.

Lightweight Woven Cottons: Soft, Breathable, and Fluid

Lightweight cottons are perfect for garments that need drape and breathability. They're typically easy to wear and care for, though some delicate varieties may benefit from a bit of extra handling care.

Cotton Voile

Weight: Very lightweight

Texture: Soft, semi-sheer, smooth

Best Uses: Blouses, scarves, linings, dresses

Notable Features: Excellent for layering and summer wear. Drapes well but retains a bit of crispness. We're looking to source more of this dreamy fabric weight, as well as cotton lawn, listed below:

Cotton Lawn

Weight: Lightweight

Texture: Silky, tightly woven, crisp

Best Uses: Shirts, dresses, heirloom garments, children’s clothes

Notable Features: More structured than voile; beautiful for crisp, fine details.

Muslin

Weight: Ranges from lightweight to medium

Texture: Soft, loosely woven (often unbleached)

Best Uses: Pattern testing (toiles), quilting foundations, casual wear, baby wraps

Notable Features: Affordable and versatile; used both in finished products and as a design tool.

Medium-Weight Woven Cottons: Structured Yet Comfortable

Medium-weight cottons are the most commonly used for everyday garments, accessories, and home goods. They strike a balance between structure and softness, making them true wardrobe and craft workhorses.

Poplin (Broadcloth)

Weight: Medium

Texture: Crisp, smooth, tightly woven

Best Uses: Shirts, skirts, dresses, uniforms, crafts

Notable Features: Holds its shape well; great for tailoring and structured garments. Several of our core styles are produced in cotton poplin, since it's a reliably awesome fabric!

Chambray

Weight: Light to medium

Texture: Similar to denim but lighter, often with a slightly mottled appearance

Best Uses: Casual shirts, dresses, lightweight pants

Notable Features: Woven with coloured and white threads; softens beautifully with wear.

Heavyweight Woven Cottons: Durable and Dependable

These cottons are designed for strength and longevity. They’re ideal for outerwear, upholstery, workwear, and accessories that need to stand up to frequent use.

Twill

Weight: Medium-heavy to heavy

Texture: Diagonal weave (creates visible ridges), sturdy

Best Uses: Pants, jackets, uniforms, bags

Notable Features: Stronger than plain weaves; drapes better than canvas while retaining structure.

Canvas

Weight: Heavy

Texture: Thick, breathable, extremely durable

Best Uses: Totes, backpacks, upholstery, tents, aprons

Notable Features: Holds its shape exceptionally well; ideal for projects requiring strength and support like trousers, jackets or more industrial designs...stay tuned, since we've got a couple new styles dropping in organic cotton canvas this Autumn!

Denim

Weight: Medium-heavy to heavy

Texture: Twill weave with a rugged surface

Best Uses: Jeans, jackets, skirts, structured garments

Notable Features: Available in different washes and weights; softens and molds with wear.

Specialty Woven Cottons

These woven cottons offer unique textures or finishes that serve specific functions in fashion, quilting, or home décor.

Gauze (Double Gauze)

Weight: Light to medium

Texture: Crinkled, soft, airy

Best Uses: Baby blankets, loose-fitting tops, summer wraps

Notable Features: Breathable and slightly stretchy; requires gentle handling during sewing. We've seen this fabric used by many other brands, and while it is a fun, cloud-like fabric to work with, it's best used for things like scarves, loose-fitting styles, as it's prone to tearing along seams and pressure points.

Flannel

Weight: Medium-heavy

Texture: Brushed for softness

Best Uses: Pajamas, cozy shirts, quilts, baby items

Notable Features: Warm and soft; often used in cold-weather garments and sleepwear.

Seersucker

Weight: Light to medium

Texture: Puckered stripes or checks

Best Uses: Warm-weather clothing, suits, curtains

Notable Features: Natural wrinkle-resistance; excellent ventilation and classic visual interest.

How to Choose the Right Woven Cotton

When choosing a cotton garment, consider the following:

Purpose: Will the fabric be worn, sat on, carried, or washed frequently?

Structure: Do you need a fabric that holds shape, drapes softly, or both?

Durability: Will the item face daily wear and tear or light, occasional use?

Feel: Do you want something crisp, soft, airy, or weighty?

Final Thoughts

Woven cotton fabrics offer an impressive range of qualities—light and airy, structured and crisp, rugged and durable. Understanding their types and weights helps you make confident choices, so next time you're shopping in person (or browsing online), look beyond the fibre content. Cotton isn’t just cotton—it’s a world of possibilities, one weave at a time.

Thanks for taking the time to read this blurb from your resident fabric nerd!